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This Sicilian restaurant isn’t the kind of place that’s known for its subtlety. Like its sister restaurant, the Elmwood neighborhood’s Trattoria La Siciliana, Agrodolce’s calling card is its garlicky olio della mamma, which bears a passing similarity to the olive-oil dips at other Italian restaurants, but with the flavor turned up to eleven. Big, bold flavors are the order of the day — from the intensely savory jus that accompanies the porchetta to the large chunks of lemon that festoon the octopus salad. If you are going to order just one thing, let it be the sfincione, or Palermo-style pizza, whose best qualities were the crisp, olive oil-soaked bottom of the crust and the intensely flavorful, anchovy-infused tomato sauce. Part of the restaurant’s charm has to do with the coziness of the space, with its dim lighting and its well-worn brick interior. Mostly, though, there is warmth and sincerity to the place that helps smooth over any rough edges.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Wed.-Mon. 5–10 p.m.

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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