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This Sicilian restaurant isn’t the kind of place that’s known for its subtlety, as with its sister restaurant, the Elmwood neighborhood’s Trattoria La Siciliana. Big, bold flavors are the order of the day — from the intensely savory jus that accompanies the porchetta to the large chunks of lemon that festoon the octopus salad. Part of the restaurant’s charm has to do with the coziness of the space, with its dim lighting and its well-worn brick interior. Mostly, though, there is warmth and sincerity to the place that helps smooth over any rough edges.

— Luke Tsai

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