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4505 started in San Francisco in 2009, selling premium-quality bagged chicharrones. In 2014, the first 4505 Burgers & BBQ opened on Divisadero Street, and in June, 4505 opened its second location in the Laurel District. The Oakland location boasts a vintage neon sign, a sunny patio, a kids’ play area, and an all-East Bay beer list. It’s got all the makings of a perfect neighborhood hangout spot — except for good barbecue. Most of the meats — brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken, and ribs — tend to come out of the kitchen cold and dry. The beef rib is the exception, though it’s pricy at $36 per pound without sides. Sides are better than your average barbecue joint, particularly the Frankaroni (a rectangle of fried mac ‘n’ cheese with hot dogs) and the buttery, airy Parker House rolls baked by Firebrand Artisan Breads. But you visit barbecue joints for the barbecue, and the barbecue ultimately falls short.

— Katherine Hamilton

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: Cash, All Major Credit Cards

Hours: Mon.-Sun. 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

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