Island time doesn’t rush by so quickly that its passing must be detected by second-parsing chronometers and marshaled by Palm Pilots. It oozes along. Tiny, reggae-imbued Jamaica Station is the East Bay’s best Jamaican restaurant, best appreciated at its own rhythm, not yours. Place your order and have a Red Stripe or a Ting. The goat curry is musky, rich, and meltingly tender. The jerk chicken isn’t grilled, but its marinade burns with layers upon layers of spices and herbs. And when it’s available, try the rare-in-America salt fish and ackee (a custardy Caribbean fruit that looks and tastes most like scrambled eggs). Is the wait dragging on? Crack another beer, bob your head with the music, and chill the fuck out.
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