.Swimmingest Peruvian Restaurant

Carlos Anton, owner of La Furia Chalaca, has a fine palate for the seafood tastes of Northern Peru and a superb eye for art. His watercolor paintings of South American fishing villages and country folk adorn the quaint space. Ten or so tables fill the room, which has an overhang along the front window facing Broadway. Golden angels hovering from the ceiling provide an ambience that is as much art gallery as restaurant. The menu is replete with appetizers, soups, salads, pastas, entrées, deserts, and drinks, including beers, colas, and water from Peru. Papa rellena, a potato fritter stuffed with ground beef and seasoned with lemon-onion sauce, is a popular meal starter. Entrées include ceviche especial, fish marinated in lime juice and chile; parihuela (fisherman’s stew, a bowl full of fish, shrimp, clams, and crab with outrageous spices); and arroz con mariscos, a Peruvian-style paella. For dessert, mazamorra morada, a combo of apple, pineapple, and raisins in a purple-corn pudding, is a sweet-tooth must. A meal for two can run $40 to $60, but it’s well worth it for the diversity of flavors.