.Best New Restaurant

Camino

Chef Russell Moore didn’t do a few years’ time at Chez Panisse just so
he could nab some recipes and open his own restaurant. He worked the
kitchen there for a dedicated 21 years. Perhaps this explains why
Camino stands out among the many cousins on the Chez-descended family
tree, and why the Oakland restaurant opened to such hot buzz among the
local fooderati. Camino’s flavors are carefully chosen and create
indelible taste memories; months may pass, but the butterhead lettuce
with the chervil-and-bleu cheese dressing will not fade away. Moore’s
menu is always simple: three appetizers, three entrées, and
three desserts on each daily menu. He has a focused idea of what he
wants diners to eat, and can get idiosyncratic. Take his ban on pasta,
for example. Camino’s cuisine has an obvious Italian influence, but
Moore is just not that into pasta, so the restaurant never serves any
shape or cut thereof. The dining room has a farm kitchen ambiance with
heaps of produce as decor, and communal tables that feel like summer
camp.

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