When you place your order for guac ‘n’ chips at Tacubaya, Doña Tomás’ tony taqueria spin-off, you can see the cook grab a couple of avocados and start slicing. That’s because they make each batch the moment the ticket arrives, throwing the avocados into a mortar and smushing them up with just the right amounts of chopped red onion, tomato, cilantro, garlic, and lime juice. You get a mound of the loosely mashed, celadon-hued puree in a big wooden bowl overflowing with fresh-fried corn chips. No insipid, watery sludge here, Tacubaya’s guacamole is creamy, chunky, buttery, and just a little tart.
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