.Best Culinary ComebackThe creamy phoenix

The faded Saturday-morning-in-the-1950s ornamentation may be gone, but somehow Fenton’s still has the same open, inviting, old-fashioned ambience despite the upmarket redesign (and prices) that came with its phoenix-like, post-arson reopening one year ago. Maybe it’s the return of the faithful (lines are as long as ever on weekends), or maybe it’s culinary karma, or perhaps it’s just that the joint’s incredible ice cream is the same yummy East Bay institution it’s been for 110 years. But be it the famous almond Rocky Road — Fenton’s invented the flavor — gargantuan banana splits, heaping portions (eight ounces of ice cream in a small sundae), the burgers and fries, or the atmosphere that makes this an equally great destination for a post-movie dessert or a family outing, the creamery is most definitely back with a sweet vengeance.