.Best Cold Soup

Gazpacho Trio at Barlata

Cold soup isn’t always about the gazpacho. In Spain’s hot, dry
Andalusia region, a variety of cooling bowls help keep the locals
fortified against that sultry Moorish sunshine. Barlata, an artsy
Iberian hangout in Oakland’s Temescal district, serves three yummy
examples of the chilled-chowder genre: ajoblanco, a creamy,
tangy concoction of garlic, almonds, and thick golden olive oil;
salmojero, a rich and smoky tomato bisque draped with Serrano
ham; and an especially vernal gazpacho bursting with the flavors
of cucumber, parsley, and sweet pepper. They’re attractively presented
in three fluted shot glasses for easy sipping, and to compare and
contrast the unique tastes and textures — light and creamy,
bright and hearty, sharp and silky — is to revel in the genre’s
multifaceted possibilities. Chef Daniel Olivella also works wonders
with salt cod, oxtail and tortilla con chorizo, and the
restaurant’s wine bar is a friendly place to sample a wide variety of
vino and jerez, and the tapas that love them.

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