Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Oakland-Produced Podcast 'Copper & Heat' Wins a James Beard Award

Katy Osuna, a former cook at three-Michelin-starred Manresa, sheds light on issues of gender in fine dining kitchens.

by Katherine Hamilton
Tue, May 28, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Katy and Ricardo Osuna with the James Beard Award. - PHOTO COURTESY OF COPPER & HEAT
  • Photo courtesy of Copper & Heat
  • Katy and Ricardo Osuna with the James Beard Award.

“Be A Girl," the first season of the Oakland-produced podcast Copper & Heat, took home an award last month for Best Podcast at the James Beard Media Awards in New York City. "Be A Girl" focuses on issues of gender in fine dining kitchens.

The team behind the podcast is Katy Osuna and her partner, Ricardo Osuna. Katy serves as the host and executive producer, while Ricardo is a producer, composer, and sound designer.

Katy's been working in the restaurant industry since her senior year in college in Idaho, when she took a job at a gastropub. There, she was the only woman working in the kitchen. Eventually, she moved to California to attend culinary school, then went on to stage at Manresa, a fine dining restaurant in Los Gatos with three Michelin stars. When she started, she was the only woman working on the savory side of the kitchen. She worked her way up the ranks at Manresa, eventually becoming a chef de partie.

Having studied anthropology and sociology in college, during her time at Manresa, Katy often found herself thinking about the gender disparities in the restaurant industry at large. As the media started to call public attention to sexual harassment in fine dining kitchens as part of the Me Too movement, Katy found herself talking with her coworkers at Manresa about these topics. "It started these larger conversations around sexism, misogyny, patriarchy in general in the kitchen," she said. In 2017, she left Manresa and started Copper & Heat.

The podcast offers an insider's look into the structure of a fine dining kitchen and some of the forces behind why women are so underrepresented in fine dining kitchens. The podcast cites that women make up about half of food service employees in general (combining both front-of-house and back-of-house positions) and a little over 50 percent of students graduating from culinary school. In the back of the house, women make up 30 percent to 50 percent of the staff. But as you move up the ranks, women only make up 19 percent of chefs and 7 percent of head chefs. The podcast's first episode, "Brigade," explains the structure of the brigade system used in kitchens, which originated in France based on the hierarchy of a military brigade. The second episode, "Oddity," discusses how traditionally feminine traits often aren't valued in the kitchen. Throughout the season, Osuna provides her own perspective while including the voices of many other cooks — many of them her former coworkers at Manresa.

Because while gender and sexual harassment in the kitchen are becoming a more common topic among high-profile chefs, cooks are often left out of the conversation. That's another key part of Copper & Heat's goal: to make sure the voices of cooks are heard.

"I just want cooks to start talking about some of this stuff more," she said. "I think until the cooks, until it actually kind of seeps into the cooks, it's not really going to change."

Katy described her reaction to learning she had won a James Beard award as "complete disbelief."

"We kind of applied on a whim," she said. The James Beard Foundation's decision this year to waive the fee for first-time submissions, Katy said, was a huge factor in their decision to apply.

Now the pair are working to expand the listener base and preparing material for Season 2. For the next season, they plan to focus on the finances and economics of being a cook.

To learn more about Copper & Heat, visit CopperAndHeat.com.

Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Mama Lamees Is Coming This Summer to the Emeryville Public Market

Meanwhile, Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement is moving to a bigger spot in the food hall.

by Katherine Hamilton
Wed, May 22, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Lamees Dahbour started cooking Palestinian cuisine at age 11. - PHOTO BY E. PUYAN
  • Photo by E. Puyan
  • Lamees Dahbour started cooking Palestinian cuisine at age 11.

If you've ever been to the Emeryville Public Market, it's hard to miss the petite corner kiosk, formerly home to long-term La Cocina pop-up Nyum Bai and currently home to Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. Last week, the Emeryville Public Market announced the upcoming occupant for the space: a Palestinian eatery called Mama Lamees.

The kiosk has served as an important stepping stone for participants in La Cocina, the San Francisco food business incubator program that supports low-income food entrepreneurs — particularly women of color. After a successful run at that kiosk, Nyum Bai moved into its own space in Fruitvale Village. Minnie Bell's is planning to move to a larger space in the Public Market, where chef Fernay McPherson will expand her menu beyond her current offerings of rosemary fried chicken, mac 'n' cheese, greens, red bean and rice salad, and brown butter cornbread.

Meanwhile, newcomer Mama Lamees is headed by La Cocina participant Lamees Dahbour. Dahbour is of Palestinian descent and was born in Kuwait. She's been cooking Palestinian cuisine since the age of 11. Though she's always loved to cook, Dahbour never thought she'd have her own food business. For 16 years, she worked for the United Nations Relief and Works Agency, where she assisted refugees. But she was also in an arranged marriage to a husband who was physically abusive. After moving to San Francisco, Dahbour divorced her husband and raised her three kids as a single mom. Dahbour joined La Cocina in 2015, an experience that she says has been transformative for her.

"La Cocina is really an amazing nonprofit organization," Dahbour said. "As an immigrant, low-income ... a single mom, a domestic violence victim ... I end[ed] up having this resource to be on the right track. It's not just being a chef. ... It's being a leader for your business, besides being a chef."

Since then, she's sold her Palestinian food at events like Off the Grid, as well as through her catering business. She was also featured in an episode of KCET's The Migrant Kitchen entitled "Man'oushe," where she discussed Palestinian food alongside La Cocina alum and chef Reem Assil. Dahbour's menu focuses on traditional Palestinian dishes that are hard to find in many restaurants in the Bay Area.

"Most of the restaurants are serving ... hummus, baba ganoush, and falafel, and shawarma," Dahbour said. "When I started [at] La Cocina, I told them, there's really traditional, authentic Palestinian food ... this food is kind of unique, and you can't find it in the market."

At the kiosk, Dahbour plans to feature several favorites from her catering menu. She'll make musakhan, a flatbread topped with caramelized onions, almonds, and sumac. There'll also be finger food like ejja, fritters made of cauliflower, carrots, cabbage, and onion. For entrées, she plans to feature mansaf, a dish made with bread, rice, and lamb braised in labneh (yogurt), and maqloubeh, a rice dish with veggies and optional lamb or chicken that's flipped upside down out of the pot and topped with almonds. Vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options will be available. Because the Public Market is a food court, Dahbour also plans to serve some more portable options like falafel and shawarma wraps.

Mama Lamees is expected to take over the kiosk at the Emeryville Public Market at 5959 Shellmound Ave. in mid-summer.

Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Mago to Open Soon on Piedmont Avenue

The first solo venture from chef Mark Liberman, formerly of AQ, TBD, and Fenix, is expected to open May 22.

by Katherine Hamilton
Wed, May 15, 2019 at 1:00 AM

Grilled chicken livers with wood sorrel and sesame. - PHOTO COURTESY OF ISABEL BAER
  • Photo courtesy of Isabel Baer
  • Grilled chicken livers with wood sorrel and sesame.

Mark Liberman, owner of Piedmont Avenue's upcoming restaurant Mago, cut his teeth in the fine dining world. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Liberman moved to Paris, where he staged at a Michelin two-star restaurant, then returned stateside, where he opened San Francisco restaurants AQ and Fenix.

Now, with Mago, he's hoping to cut the pretenses of fine dining and throw a good dinner party.

Like a dinner party, the person who's cooking your food will likely also be the person serving your food. And like a dinner party, guests gather where all the action takes place — the kitchen.

"When I go to dinner parties ... they kind of gravitate toward the kitchen," Liberman said. "So the kitchen's very open .... I want the cooks and the chefs to be able to talk to the guests, tell them what they're doing."

At the 45-seat restaurant, guests will be seated at a counter around the hearth, where live-fire cooking will take place. Using primarily local ingredients — many of which Liberman grows, forages, and ferments himself — the restaurant draws inspiration from Liberman's French and Italian training, as well as his Colombian and Jewish/Polish roots. The menu is also seasonally inspired, drawing from Northern California's 52 micro-seasons. That means the menu will essentially change every week, though some favorites may stay on the menu longer.

In a departure from his fine-dining résumé, Liberman is taking a more straightforward approach at Mago. "I really wanted to make food that was really craveable — food that I want to go eat on my day off," Liberman said. "I'm really focusing on simple food that's done in an innovative way and interesting way." Most plates will feature no more than three or four ingredients.

Liberman says affordability is a big component of Mago's mission, but he won't cut costs when it comes to quality. "We're still using sustainable farms and using really good fish, but instead of using the prime cuts of all those animals, we'll probably use other cuts." All plates, except for the family-style plates, which feed two to four people, will ring in at under $24.

The menu will be divided into three categories: snacks, plates, and family-style entrées. On the opening menu, snacks include strawberry aguachile with fresh cream, focaccia with seaweed, and yakitori with sorrel. Plates will include beet salad with pine nut labneh, spring garlic soup with new potatoes, and cacio e pepe with Meyer lemon and pink peppercorn. On the family-style menu is a lamb shoulder, which is cooked in its own fat and then cooked over the coals to order. There'll also be a menu of seasonal cocktails from bar director Adam Chapman, a menu of wines from all over the world from wine consultant Allegra Angelo, desserts from consulting pastry chef Robert Hac, and even a program of fresh juices.

As an Oakland resident, Liberman also wants Mago to be a neighborhood-friendly bistro. While the restaurant will accept reservations on Resy, a number of seats will be reserved for walk-ins — something that Liberman feels is essential to a neighborhood restaurant. There'll also be a patio where guests can relax and enjoy cocktails and a menu of smaller bites. Plans are in the works to offer lunch — possibly a fast-casual concept — and maybe breakfast, too. Liberman also has a young daughter, so Mago is kid-conscious. Children's books, a patio play area, and a kids' menu will all be available, as well as a changing table in the bathroom. Liberman also plans to offer cooking classes for all skill levels, and his wife, Theresa, will offer cheese classes for kids and adults.

Mago is at 3762 Piedmont Ave. Once open, hours will be Monday through Saturday, 5-10 p.m.

Tuesday, May 7, 2019

Community Foods Market Targets Mid-May Opening in West Oakland

The market promises affordable fresh food, a community gathering space, health services, and more.

by Katherine Hamilton
Tue, May 7, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Brahm Ahmadi's quest to bring fresh food to West Oakland started in 2002, when he co-founded a nonprofit called People's Grocery. The nonprofit's truck made scheduled stops around the neighborhood four days a week, making produce and other necessities available to the community.

Still, Ahmadi knew it was a temporary fix for what West Oakland really needed: a full-service grocery store, complete with produce, dairy, and a meat and seafood counter. According to Ahmadi, West Oakland hasn't had a full-service grocery store since the 1970s. That means that, aside from the smaller grocery store Mandela Foods Cooperative, residents would have to either leave the neighborhood to shop, or rely on liquor stores for foods that are typically processed and overpriced. So in 2012, Ahmadi began working toward opening a neighborhood full-service grocery store — now known as Community Foods Market — which he expects will open on or around May 15.

Its aim is to offer affordable fresh food to promote healthier eating. There'll be some higher-priced local and organic foods alongside national brands, as well as some value-priced private label options. There'll also be a "Wall of Value," a warehouse-style area where the store will purchase bulk quantities of products and sell them directly from the pallets.

Ahmadi recognizes that being short on time is one of the biggest barriers to eating healthy and wants to offer solutions. At the meal station area, customers can pick up handouts featuring a recipe of the day, along with nutrition information. The ingredients for preparing the recipe will be at the meal station.

Customers can also dine in or pick up ready-to-eat meals at the Front Porch Cafe. The cafe will serve coffee, smoothies, breakfast, lunch, dinner, and a la carte options. The aim is to have affordable options in every section of the menu and to offer a range of selections that reflects the diversity of the neighborhood.

The Front Porch Cafe will also serve as a neighborhood gathering space. The area can be used for live music, art exhibitions, movie screenings, and poetry readings.

"It's something we really heard from the neighborhood — that folks want experiences, and they want to do it in their own neighborhood without having to leave, and they're tired of that," Ahmadi said. "That's just not fair, and it's a loss to the economy of the local community."

In keeping with its mission of promoting neighborhood health, the store will partner with community health services to provide information and services on site. It's planning to host hypertension screenings with LifeLong Medical Care, food education workshops with 18 Reasons, and offer CalFresh outreach through the Alameda County Food Bank.

Traditional investors weren't interested in a store like Community Foods Market. So Ahmadi sold $2 million in shares to community members and California residents. For those investors, it was an opportunity to invest in a local, community-oriented business.

A grand opening block party will take place on June 1 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., with live music, vendors, arts and crafts, and a resource fair.

"There's so many other parts of Oakland that are getting developed and things are happening, but not really here," Ahmadi said. "And this community deserves it just as much as those."

Community Foods Market, 3105 San Pablo Ave., 8 a.m.-8 p.m. daily; cafe hours 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. For more information, visit CommunityFoodsMarket.com.

Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Top Hatters Kitchen Opens in San Leandro

The restaurant brings its eclectic menu to a former hat shop.

by Katherine Hamilton
Wed, May 1, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Diners chow down at Top Hatters Kitchen. - PHOTO BY EMILY NATHON
  • Photo by Emily Nathon
  • Diners chow down at Top Hatters Kitchen.

After a few years in the works, plenty of renovations, and a brief soft opening period, Top Hatters Kitchen celebrated its grand opening on April 24.

Chef DanVy Vu, who owns the restaurant along with her husband, Matthew Beavers, has wanted to open her own restaurant for years. But that wasn't always the case. Growing up, Vu's family rarely dined in restaurants; she recalled feeling uneasy and unsure what to do in a restaurant environment. As a college student at UC Berkeley, she went on a date at a fancy restaurant. Vu ordered pasta with toasted pine nuts, and she loved it. Back in her Berkeley student co-op, she recreated the dish for her peers — and received rave reviews.

"I realized, 'Oh, my gosh; this is what cooking's about. It's really about pleasing others,'" Vu said. She started cooking all the time and experimenting with different ingredients from Berkeley Bowl. And from then on, Vu loved everything about restaurants.

"I loved the atmosphere, the experience of a restaurant. This is where love happens. This is where relationships begin."

In 2011, Vu opened a food truck called Go Streatery, which billed its style of cuisine as "peasant food." It's a "way of life," she said, that she learned from her father growing up. As the daughter of Vietnamese refugees living in Orange County, Vu said her parents sometimes boarded up to 18 people in their four-bedroom house to make ends meet. Vu's father taught her to cook, and from then on, it was Vu's job to cook for everyone.

"We didn't ever have fancy cuts or anything, but food was just so good, regardless of ingredients," Vu said. "I always refer to my dad as a modern-day peasant; he was able to create really delicious dishes under limitations, and everything was made from scratch."

While Top Hatter's Kitchen doesn't limit itself to a single ethnic cuisine, the concept of peasant food continues to drive the menu. One dish on the menu is Vietnamese-style cabbage rolls, stuffed with pork, wood ear mushrooms, glass noodles, bone broth, and country wild rice. It's a dish Vu's father made for her growing up, though customers of various backgrounds have told Vu that they ate something similar growing up. You'll also find oxtail and grits, a holdover from the Go Streatery days that customers across many cultures might have eaten some variation of as a kid. Even the zeppole, or Italian doughnuts, are essentially fried dough — something a lot of different cultures have in common.

The menu also includes family-style platters for sharing. Plus, Vu uses San Leandro products whenever possible — bread from As Kneaded Bakery, beer from Cleophus Quealy and Drake's Brewing, and many vegetables from her own garden. There's even a list of cocktails named after hats.

Vu hopes that her eclectic menu will appeal to a diverse customer base. After all, Vu said, she's aiming to be a true neighborhood restaurant that reflects not only San Leandro, where she and her husband live, but also neighboring Oakland. "Both of our cities are in the top 10 most diverse cities in America ... so I think the menu has to reflect that," Vu said. Vu also hires staff members from San Leandro and Oakland. Her staff members even include high school students from San Leandro High School, and she plans to hire students from Oakland.

Vu hopes that everyone feels at home at Top Hatters Kitchen — even those who may not be accustomed to upscale dining. "In our cultural training, I tell our staff, 'Listen, just remember young DanVy. .... Our menu may look and sound elevated, but we cannot act like that.' ... I want people to feel comfortable here."

Top Hatters Kitchen is at 855 MacArthur Blvd., San Leandro. Hours are Tue.-Thu. 5-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-11 p.m., and Sun. 5-10 p.m., with plans to add lunch and brunch service. For more information, visit TopHattersKitchen.com.

Wednesday, April 24, 2019

Mar Z Pan Bakes Up Danish and Filipino Flavors

From Danish lingonberry sandwich cookies to calamansi-glazed sourdough donuts.

by Katherine Hamilton
Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Marianna Zapanta of Oakland bakery Mar Z Pan bakes up Danish and Filipino-inspired treats no one else is making.

Her vegan sourdough donuts come in flavors ranging from Filipino buko pandan to Scandinavian lingonberry. She also makes pandesal, a Filipino roll typically eaten for breakfast or snack, in its traditional plain form, as well as stuffed with Nutella or marzipan.

The marzipan pandesal, in many ways, is Zapanta's signature product. Zapanta's mother is Danish, and her father is Filipino. As she was formulating the name and concept for her bakery, friends and family suggested using a name with the word "marzipan" in it, since it sounded like a play on her name. So Zapanta decided to stuff pandesal with marzipan. The name and the concept fit, and Mar Z Pan was born. The bakery, a cottage food business, opened in October 2018.

But Zapanta said she didn't intentionally set out to create one of the few, if not the only Filipino-Danish bakery in existence. Instead, she was driven by her tastes in desserts. "Selfishly, what I wanted to do was put out things I would want to eat myself," she said. "A lot of the flavors I gravitate towards are flavors of stuff I grew up with." Many of her recipes are based on ones she got from her paternal Filipino grandmother and her maternal Danish grandfather (or Morfar as she calls him in Danish).

Take, for example, her pandesal. Zapanta based this off her grandma's "recipe" that she found in a recipe box one Christmas. Zapanta also offers a Nutella version, which has become one of her most popular products. "I feel like it's something that a lot of Filipino kids, if they had access to, would just want to have all the time," Zapanta said.

Most of her doughnut flavors lean Filipino, too. Zapanta uses a vegan sourdough base, which she said is easier to digest and compliments the flavor of the sweet glazes. All glazes are made in-house, with flavors like calamansi (Filipino citrus), ube (purple yam), buko pandan (coconut pandan), and — on the more Danish side — lingonberry. Non-vegan ube doughnuts are also available.

Zapanta also offers Danish sandwich cookies. The outsides are classic Danish butter cookies made using her morfar's recipe. Zapanta stuffs these with tart lingonberry jam, putting her own Danish twist on a traditional Danish dessert.

Macarons might be French in origin, but Zapanta puts her twist on those, too. Filipino-inspired flavors include ube, calamansi, buko pandan, and coconut. There's also lingonberry.

Additional products include sourdough bread, available in plain and rosemary-garlic varieties, flourless mini chocolate cakes, and custom cakes available in chocolate, vanilla, or Filipino flavors. There's even a bread club, where customers can sign up for weekly, biweekly, or monthly deliveries of sourdough bread or pandesal.

At first, business spread mostly by word-of-mouth, but now Zapanta said she's getting lots of business through Yelp. As word about Mar Z Pan has spread, there's been one unexpected result: Zapanta has had other Filipino-Danish people reach out to her. "Growing up, I didn't know any Filipino-Danish people other than myself and my sister," Zapanta said. "It's such a sort of unique thing ... someone you can talk about both of those things with."

Eventually, Zapanta's goal is to open a brick-and-mortar bakery, where customers could walk in and buy a single Nutella pandesal on a whim. But for now, customers can order her bread and pastries online at MarZPan.com.

Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Eat and Drink Your Cannabis the East Bay Way

These edibles (and drinkables) are all made in the East Bay.

by Katherine Hamilton
Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Nowadays, there are seemingly endless ways to consume marijuana — vaping, dabbing, topicals, tinctures, even Epsom salts for a relaxing THC-infused bath.

But let's not overlook the growing number of ways to eat and drink cannabis. Looking to keep it local next time you consume cannabis? Here's a guide to just a few of the commercially produced edibles made in the East Bay. To find retailers that carry these products, visit the manufacturers' websites.

Chocolate from Défoncé

Oakland's Défoncé Chocolatier takes both chocolate and cannabis very seriously. Défoncé, which means "stoned" in French, sources its chocolate from Belgium and its sun-grown cannabis from California farms that don't use chemical pesticides. Its chocolatiers, who have years of experience, produce the cannabis chocolate in a 40,000-square-foot facility in Oakland — the largest cannabis confectionery facility in the world. The chocolatier has become known for its full-size chocolate bars, which contain 18 servings of 5 milligrams of THC each for a total of 90 milligrams of THC per bar. There are nine flavors, ranging from straightforward dark, milk, and white chocolate to more unusual options like matcha tea white chocolate and hazelnut dark chocolate.

This month, the chocolatier also announced new additions to its lineup. The company now offers single-serving squares containing 5 milligrams of THC each, as well as a new line of "bites" containing just 1 milligram of THC. Varieties of bites include dark chocolate blueberries, milk chocolate almonds, milk chocolate hazelnuts, and milk chocolate espresso beans. Defonce.com.

Kikoko Tea Sampler

Emeryville's Kikoko was founded by two middle-aged women, Amanda Jones and Jennifer Chapin. The women were inspired when one of their friends, who was battling cancer, turned to cannabis for relief, but didn't like smoking and found that edibles got her too high. Meanwhile, some of their other friends relied on pharmaceuticals for sleep, anxiety, pain, and mood issues, and found that cannabis was a healthier alternative. Jones and Chapin chose tea as a vehicle for cannabis, thanks to its history in the women's suffrage movement.

Kikoko's Taste of Tea box contains samples of four of cannabis teas. Tranquili-Tea is supposed to help with insomnia; Positivi-Tea with boosting mood; Sympa-Tea with pain relief; and Sensuali-Tea with sex. Each blend contains varying amounts of CBD and THC. Teas are organically grown, and all cannabis is sun-grown and sourced from Mendocino County. Kikoko.com.

New From Om Edibles

Om Edibles, a woman-run Berkeley company, is releasing a special pack of gummis just in time for 4/20. The special edition tropical fruit mélange pack includes strawberry hibiscus, key lime, mango, and guava. The pack contains 12 gummies, each containing 5 milligrams of THC and less than 2 milligrams of CBD.

Om Edibles' raw CBD cacao, which is sweetened with raw agave, has won plenty of best edible awards. Blend it with water or a milk of your choice for a CBD-infused hot chocolate, or try it with strawberries.

For those who prefer their cannabis on the savory side, there's even extra virgin olive oil infused with 200 milligrams of THC and 25 milligrams of CBD per bottle. Drizzle it on salad or use it to make elevated garlic bread. OmEdibles.com.

Dosies Miracle Mints

In creating Dosies, the first edible product from Oakland's Sublime Canna, the company brought on board experienced candymakers, including an executive from Ferrara Candy Company, which makes Lemonheads and Laffy Taffy. The orange-flavored candy coated mints, which come in a portable package, contain 2 milligrams of THC each, are ideal for microdosing on the go. SublimeCanna.com.

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

Going Local at Salt Point Seaweed

Most seaweed consumed here is imported from farms in Asia. Salt Point Seaweed aims to change that.

by Katherine Hamilton
Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 4:00 AM

Salt Point Seaweed’s three women founders. - PHOTO BY SHAUN WOLFE
  • Photo by Shaun Wolfe
  • Salt Point Seaweed’s three women founders.

It's easy to find fresh, local produce in the Bay Area. But seaweed? That was largely a different story, up until Salt Point Seaweed came along in June 2017.

The Oakland company was founded by three Bay Area women: Tessa Emmer, Catherine O'Hare, and Avery Resor. According to Salt Point Seaweed, over 90 percent of seaweed eaten in the United States is imported from Asia — often from commercial seaweed farms. But importing seaweed across the ocean produces a big carbon footprint, so the women of Salt Point Seaweed decided to harvest and sell local seaweed to help offset that.

The three founders of Salt Point Seaweed currently harvest all their seaweed themselves from Mendocino County. The company offers three varieties: California kombu and California wakame (both of which are kelps, or brown seaweed) and nori. The seaweed is similar, but not quite identical, to the varieties that are imported from China, Korea, or Japan. "They're technically different species, but because they're both Pacific Ocean algaes, they're very similar in taste and use," O'Hare said.

The company is sustainability-minded, so the women are also careful about the way they harvest their seaweed. They prune the seaweed, allowing it to regrow and regenerate instead of harvesting the whole thing. They also won't touch species like giant kelp, which are in decline. "We're always adapting our harvesting techniques and monitoring how we're harvesting," O'Hare said. "Because of how fast growing seaweed is, it can be harvested — if it's done right — in a really sustainable way."

Eventually, Salt Point Seaweed also hopes to sell locally farmed seaweed, which would make it one of the first places in the country to do so. The company is currently wrapping up a pilot project with Hog Island Oyster Company, where it grew its own seaweed and monitored the resulting carbon and nitrogen levels in the water. "We're hoping to show those numbers to regulatory agencies like Fish and Wildlife and the Coastal Commision to help make the case that seaweed farming can be done with a really low impact and actually help improve the ecosystem," O'Hare said.

But O'Hare said the road to starting a seaweed farm is long and arduous, thanks to the regulatory processes required to get an aquaculture license. In the meantime, Salt Point Seaweed is focusing on expanding its line of seaweed products. The current lineup includes dried kombu and dried wakame for cooking, as well as toasted and ground seaweed flakes for garnishing. For those who don't cook with seaweed or want to take their seaweed to go, the company also recently released a ready-to-eat product called Surf Snack. It's a savory-sweet snack made with a mixture of California wakame and California nori, organic maple syrup, organic toasted sesame oil, and a blend of organic seeds including sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, and more. The company recently launched a Kickstarter campaign to raise funds for equipment to produce Surf Snack more efficiently, and the campaign has already raised over $30,000.

You can find Salt Point Seaweed's products in East Bay stores including Preserved, Cro Cafe, Oaktown Spice Shop's Oakland location, and Third Culture Bakery's Berkeley showroom. You'll also find people cooking with Salt Point Seaweed's products at Gather, Good to Eat Dumplings, Abrothacary, and Broth Baby.

Wednesday, April 3, 2019

Dashe Cellars Is Leaving The Jack London District

After fifteen years in Oakland, the winery is moving to Spirits Alley in Alameda.

by Katherine Hamilton
Wed, Apr 3, 2019 at 1:00 AM

Alameda Point beckons for Dashe Cellars, which is leaving Oakland behind. - PHOTO COURTESY OF DASHE CELLARS
  • Photo courtesy of Dashe Cellars
  • Alameda Point beckons for Dashe Cellars, which is leaving Oakland behind.

It's Oakland's loss, but Alameda's gain. Dashe Cellars is moving from its current home in the Jack London District and relocating to Spirits Alley in Alameda Point.

The winery, owned by married couple Mike and Anne Dashe, was founded in 1996. The winery settled into its current home in the Jack London District at 55 4th Street in 2004. When the winery first moved in, Mike Dashe said, it was one of the few wineries in the Jack London district. Eventually, other wineries followed suit, and Oakland became something of an urban winery hotspot.

But when the winery's lease ended and the landlord increased the rent three-fold, Dashe said they had no choice but to relocate. The last day of service at the Oakland location will be on May 12, and the first day of service at the pop-up tasting room at their new location in Alameda (1951 Monarch Street, Suite 300) will be on May 18.

Dashe expressed disappointment about having to leave their Oakland warehouse, especially after spending a significant amount of money to improve the building. But he also expressed disappointment at having to leave behind the community Dashe Cellars had built in Oakland. "We were really supported by the community," he said. "We really felt embraced by Oakland. We're very sad to have to leave it."

There's plenty to celebrate about the new location, though. The new winery will be located inside an 18,000-square-foot hangar, which will be shared with Urban Legend Winery. Best of all, there's a great view of the bay. Plans are in the works to construct a family and dog-friendly deck for sipping wines and enjoying the view. "When we saw the view of the San Francisco skyline and sailboats sailing in the backyard, we knew that we needed to jump on the space," Dashe said in a press release.

Dashe Cellars produces a wide array of wines but specializes in Zinfandels. The wines are made with native yeast fermentation, meaning that only the wild yeasts on the grapes are used in the fermentation process — no industrial yeasts added.

To bid farewell to the Jack London space, Dashe Cellars is throwing a series of weekend events Thursdays through Saturdays from noon to 6 p.m., starting with a spring release party from Apr. 18-21. Apr. 25-28 is rosé release weekend, and May 2-5 is Zinfandel release weekend, where they'll be pouring the wines that Dashe is best known for. On May 11 from noon to 6 p.m., there'll be an official farewell party, featuring live music, Mexican food from the Canasta Kitchen food truck, and of course, plenty of wine. They'll be pouring Zinfandels, red blends including "The Comet" and "Ancient Vines," biodynamically-farmed Cabernet Sauvignon, lighter reds from the Les Enfants Terribles collection, and Methode Champenoise sparkling wine.

Wednesday, March 27, 2019

Ruth Reichl's New Memoir Debuts

Patterson to be a panelist at GGRA conference, ReGrained wins NEXTY, and The Perennial and its warehouse close.

by S. Rufus
Wed, Mar 27, 2019 at 6:03 PM

  • Photo by Michael Singer
  • Ruth Reichl

Ruth Reichl, the longtime New York Times restaurant critic, bestselling author, and former Gourmet Magazine editor-in-chief — who largely launched her culinary career in Berkeley — has a new book out.

Launching in April from Random House, Reichl's new book, Save Me the Plums: A Gourmet Memoir, chronicles her decade as editor-in-chief at Gourmet — a job she initially declined, not wanting to be a boss, but then accepted as she had begun reading the magazine at age 8. During the early 1970s, New York City native Reichl was a chef and key member of Berkeley's Swallow Restaurant collective, a forerunner in the creation of California Cuisine.

A press release calls this new book "the story of a former Berkeley hippie trying to navigate corporate America without losing her soul. It is the story of the moment restaurants became an important part of popular culture, a time when the rise of the farm-to-table movement forever changed the way that we eat."

Famous figures appearing in the book, which is an American Book Association 2019 Indie Next pick, include Anthony Bourdain, David Chang, Anna Wintour, David Foster Wallace, and many more.

Reichl will do a reading at Book Passage in Larkspur on April 8.

Work-Life Balance

Oakland resident, chef, and restaurateur Daniel Patterson — whose restaurants have included San Francisco's Coi and Oakland's Haven and Plum, among others — will be part of a panel discussion during the Golden Gate Restaurant Associations' April 15-16 conference. The SF event brings together restaurant-industry stakeholders to discuss the hottest trends, tools, topics, and technologies.

This year's discussions will revolve around robots, food delivery, surburban expansions, and the potential obsolescence of mid-tier full-service restaurants in a scene increasingly dominated by high-quality fast-casual spaces.

Patterson will be one of several speakers in a panel titled "Being Hospitable to Oneself: Mental Health & Work/Life Balance in the Hospitality Industry."

ReGrained Wins NEXTY

Berkeley's ReGrained, which manufactures sustainable snacks using upcycled grains rescued from the beer-brewing process, won a coveted NEXTY Award recently at the Natural Products Expo West in Anaheim.

Joining a line of chewy bars, the company's new savory puffed snacks in chef-driven flavors also are made with ReGrained's patented technology.

"These four products represent the future of the natural products industry where sustainability and transparency are the norm," said Jessie Shafer, content director at New Hope Network and one of the NEXTY judges.

Restaurant, Greenhouse Close

Sustainability-focused San Francisco restaurant The Perennial, which opened in 2015 and grew its own greenhouse crops in West Oakland, has closed.

"We always tried to embody and imagine a new way forward ... always open to the challenge of dreaming the impossible into existence," an Instagram post read, as reported at ProduceGrower.

Husband-and-wife restaurateurs Karen Leibowitz and Anthony Myint started Mission Chinese Food and Commonwealth before founding The Perennial. Its "Director of Living Systems," Nathan Kaufman, helmed the restaurant's 1,000-square-foot greenhouse and 2,000-square-foot outdoor production space in West Oakland, growing a global array of produce.

A 2017 article in ProduceGrower revealed his highly sustainable strategy: "Kaufman takes leftover food prep that the back-of-house staff has divided into two categories (the first being produce and the second being being meat, dairy, and bread) and composts it. He uses worms to break down the produce and black soldier flies to break down the meat, dairy and bread. In turn, he feeds the fly larva to sturgeon and catfish that power aquaponic systems."

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