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Fruitvale’s Wing Town Cafe is a small, family-owned wingery, tucked into a ramshackle shopping plaza anchored by a Mi Pueblo supermarket. They may not offer pasture-raised, organic meat here, but the fresh-not-frozen chicken doesn't give off any strange chemical artifice. The meat runs a little dry, but the skin has a pronounced crispness, lightly browned on the edges. Lemon pepper is the top seller but the hot wing is solid, and the house wing, "Oooh Weee!!" is a custom blend of hot sauce, a thick molasses barbecue, and a bit of garlic: interesting if not entirely successful.

— Jesse Hirsch

Hours: Mon.-Thu., Sun. noon-9 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. noon-10 p.m.

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Price: $

Payment Type: cash, all major credit cards

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