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This longtime West Berkeley cafe/bakery/hangout is now open for dinner with a full bar, an upscale (yet affordable) California-cuisine bill of fare, and a kitchen that often lives up to the menu’s aspirations. Begin with the extra-comforting Aztec hominy-avocado soup, try the tender leg of lamb or the marvelous spicy-creamy pulled pork with polenta at entrée time, and finish things off with the simple yet satisfying fruit oatmeal crisp. Brief wine list; perfunctory surroundings.

— Matthew Stafford

Hours: Sun. 8 a.m.-2 p.m.; Mon. 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; Tue.-Fri. 7 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sat. closed.

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: Cash, MasterCard, Visa

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