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After an extensive five-month renovation, the granddaddy of all tiki bars has adopted a more casual 21st-century attitude, with a larger lounge area, more totems and less starched napery, and a lighter, spicier menu. Some of the food is still deep-fried and heavily sauced, but classics like the ham and Gruyere Cheese Bings and the oyster-spinach Bongo Bongo Soup continue to delight. Best of all, though, are the dazzling tropical cocktails served in a variety of bowls and flagons, especially the sweet, potent 1944 Mai Tai (a house original).

— Matthew Stafford

Hours: Lunch: Tue.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner Tue.-Thu. 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 5-10:30 p.m.; Sun. 4:30-9:30 p.m.; Mon. closed

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Price: $$$-$$$$

Payment Type: Cash, American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa.

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