Watch out, Zachary's: The pizza pendulum is swinging away from ultra-maxi-mega-thick Chicago style. With newcomers Gioia Pizzeria and Dopo joining Arinell's in putting out wafery, crisp pies smeared demurely with sauce and cheese, thin is in. If you're looking for skinny role models, the Neapolitans -- the original pizzaiolos -- were doing it Calista Flockhart-style centuries ago. That's why we like Lafayette's Pizzeria Antica so much. Chef Gordon Drysdale's "antique" crusts are so thin they're practically translucent, his toppings the perfect mix of ancient and new. New: Grilled radicchio, goat cheese, pancetta, and pesto. Old: Classic margherita
with tomato sauce, fresh buffalo mozzarella, and julienned basil. Naples might not give Drysdale its stamp of approval -- according to their new standards, you have to use tomatoes grown in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius -- but we sure do.
1512 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley, 510-549-3055