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Several delectable examples of Jamaica's spicy, supple cookery are prepared and served at this unprepossessing San Leandro hole in the wall. The jerk chicken is juicy and jazzy; the fried plantains are creamy; the escovitch-style snapper, curry goat, brown stew chicken, and braised oxtail are uniformly rich, spiky, and tantalizing. The curry shrimp and the rice and beans are nothing special, but save room for a slice of navy bean pie. Friendly, helpful service; lively bar scene; live music Fridays and Saturdays.

— Matthew Stafford

Hours: Sun.-Thurs. 3-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 3 p.m.-midnight

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