With its high ceilings, plaster walls, and winding, asymmetrical bar, the Starline has a kind of old-fashioned grandeur that speaks to the building’s long, eclectic history. The menu is tiny (maybe ten dishes total on any given night), changes all the time, and the food is straight-up California cuisine that straddles the line between highbrow and lowbrow — between a customer’s expectation of what bar food ought to be and something a little more ambitious. It’s by design that the Starline is a place where you can linger over a craft cocktail, but also where you can drop $28 on fried chicken and wash it down with a $3 Miller High Life. Although the beer-battered onion rings are delicious, the less stereotypically bar-snack-y menu items — say, rack of lamb or a sauté of Monterey squid, sweet corn, and bacon lardons — are where the kitchen really shines.
Hours: Daily 5 p.m.– 2 a.m.; kitchen closes at midnight
Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards