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An entirely fleshless restaurant, this Berkeley sister of a beloved Santa Cruz institution serves updated diner food in faux-Fifties silver-glitter splendor, complete with twirly counter stools and sparkly spill-proof booths — with Che Guevara as an intrusive and arguably offensive design motif. High points include the FLT, which stands for Fakin' Bacon, lettuce, and tomato — a glorious sunburst of juicy fresh organic produce and time-testedly masterful mock meat on square sourdough slices whose grill-kissed summer-cloud whiteness shouts Classic sandwich, born in the USA. Further revelations include Soyrizo-stuffed breakfast burritos; zesty Southwestern posole; and the Cowgirl Blues Salad, loaded with mock bacon, mock chicken, blue-cheese dressing, and blue-cheese chunks.

— Anneli Rufus

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight weekdays and 10 a.m.-midnight Saturday and Sunday

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Price: $$

Organic and seasonal ingredients used whenever possible; entire menu is vegan/vegetarian.

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