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Chef-owner Massimiliano Boldrini grew up in Emilia-Romagna, the Italian region that invented pasta. Naturally, the many house-made shapes are fantastic, framed with the kind of radical simplicity that makes a dish like tubes with tomato sauce and grilled sardines taste primordial. Boldrini is fussy about his seafood — it’s usually local and consistently delicious. The semi-hidden space he’s carved out feels casual for a restaurant with such serious chops, but hey, it’s all part of the charm.

Hours: 7:30 a.m.-8:00 p.m. Mon.-Wed.; 7:30 a.m.-8:30 Thu.-Fri. Closed Sat.-Sun.

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, cash, ATM/Debit

Attire: casual to semi-dressy

Extra Info: Organic olive oil, coffee, and milk; wild or sustainably farmed seafood; much of the produce is organic. Participates in the Community Alliance for Family Farmers' "Buy Fresh, Buy Local" campaign.

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