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The Asian fusion cuisine at this Rockridge spot is understated, with dashes of aplomb. Try the wickedly delicious Brussels sprouts, made with salt pork, honey, and Sriracha, with their outside leaves curled and crisped from their deep-fried treatment, while the inside remains tender. The salmon is another stunner, seared to a lacy crispness, and presented on a mash of yams in a dish swimming with a coconut-based red curry sauce. But don’t expect too much heat: Traditional Northern Chinese dishes, like the dry-fried chicken wings, are well prepared but not particularly bold. The room is swanky and polished, yet laid-back and friendly, with excellent service and Asian-inspired cocktails.

— Cynthia Salaysay

Hours: Tues.-Sun. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-10 p.m.

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