On our recent trips to Prima we've found ourselves wondering over the fact that we couldn't remember a single plate being cleared. We know the waitstaff was there -- we remember all their faces -- but they were so smooth, so competent, that we couldn't picture anything that they were doing during our meal. They're much like Prima's restrained decor, all creams and ruddy woods, which simultaneously accommodates casual meals and special occasions. Overseen by Gerardo Acevedo-Vanni, the waiters, busers, and bartenders work together quickly and quietly to sneak water into your glass, slip your fork away from your elbow, and make food mysteriously float out from the kitchen to your place. Plus, the servers know how to suggest the perfect glass or bottle from Prima's stunning (and somewhat daunting) wine list without ruffling any alpha-male egos. All this polish lets diners focus on the food, which keeps getting better.