Jenny's Dulceria carries all the accoutrements you'd need to trick out a kid's birthday party -- invitations, curling ribbon, decorations, cups and plates, and, of course, brightly colored piñatas decorated with cartoon characters. But the shop's real draw is in the sheer variety of candies you can buy to pack into the piñata, most of them in a flavor palette new to Americans. These are heavy on the tropical fruit and chili tastes -- try the Pulparindo Pops, a different take on the Tootsie Pop, with guava, mango, pineapple, or green-apple-flavored exteriors and tamarind filling in the center. American candy buyers used to getting their sweets in bar form will be delighted to find unorthodox sugar-delivery methods such as the CuChaRa Mix -- essentially a large plastic spoon affixed to a shapeless glob of tamarind, watermelon, or mango candy. Or try a packet of Duvalin, a shallow plastic dish of creamy skimmed-milk candy you eat with a tiny plastic spoon (the best is the "4 sabores" pack with stripes of strawberry, vanilla, hazelnut, and cajeta
-- a caramely flavor made from sugar and condensed goats' milk). But don't toy around with the lemon- and chile-flavored salt packets unless you're already a Mexican candy expert. Yowza.