With flabby kitchen-sink omelettes and turgid home fries, breakfast can be the least imaginative food ever to load up a dinner plate. Not at Oliveto's downstairs cafe, which offers a daily alternative that's polished and original. For the cost of eggs Benedict you can feast on an impeccable thin-crust breakfast pizza dotted with pancetta, topped with a couple of custardy farm eggs baked in the heat of an almond-wood fire. The toasted breakfast sandwich is amazing: thin slices of Acme pain de mie plastered with housemade tomato condiment a jammy puree of long-cooked dried tomatoes, herbs, and onions slicked together with melted Mozzarella. The heart of the sandwich is house-cured prosciutto cotto, brined and flocked with rosemary. You order at the counter, which keeps everything casual: no dealing with the waiter-and-tablecloth thing. And the perfect croissants and sticky buns come from the pastry department a recent Meyer lemon scone seemed every bit as sunny as the cafe's coveted College Avenue sidewalk tables.