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At this unobtrusive restaurant on Lakeshore Avenue, Marcel Pagnol dialogue graces the wall, the servers speak French effortlessly, and the food tastes very French indeed. But chef Anthony Salguero also draws heavily on the Bay Area's storied Cal-French tradition, making rustic bistro dishes slightly lighter and brighter. Bison tartare, which replaces the traditional raw beef with coarsely chopped bison, is a textural delight — each bite of bison, caper berry, and whole mustard grains “pops,” caviar-like, in your mouth. Plump, sweet mussels are served in a tasty, Pernod-infused broth that’s brightened by the inclusion of preserved lemon rind. And the lamb burger is alone worth a trip. Other highlights include the affordable, all-French wine program (wherein each wine is available in four serving sizes) and the reliably great weekend brunch menu.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Tue.-Sun. 5:30-9:30 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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