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The permanent ochre dusk at this Dublin steakhouse is punctuated only by a constellation of table lamps and the lunar glow of hundreds of backlit bottles at the bar. It’s a magical hour, the McNamara’s hour, when martini follows martini until it’s time to cut up some meat. Summon one of the cuts of choice Angus steak, wet-aged for up to a month until buttery and seared until crusty (the New York and the ribeye excel). Cast aside all the trappings — the sauces, the cheeses, the smashed potatoes are decent but not exceptional — until it’s just you, face to face with your beef, armed only with cold gin and a butter knife.

Hours: 5-9 p.m. every day; lounge opens at 4 p.m. weekdays

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Diners Club, cash, ATM/Debit

Attire: casual

Entertainment: piano player on fri and sat night


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