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Practitioners of whole-animal cookery believe that if humans are going to kill animals for their meat, it’s only right to use up every last “odd bit.” Marrow’s owner, Jon Kosorek (formerly of Jon’s Street Eats), isn’t the first East Bay chef to adopt this philosophy, but he might be the first to open a restaurant promising that every piece of meat will come from a whole animal, dismantled on-site — all in a tiny shoebox of a sandwich shop with barely a dozen seats. Even putting issues of conscience aside, the meat-centric fare at Marrow is outstanding. Depending on what animal Kosorek is focused on currently, the menu might feature a gloriously saucy corned beef Reuben; grilled pork terrine served with a 64-degree egg; a surprisingly delicate “Cobb” salad with smoky roasted salmon; and, of course, the restaurant’s namesake: roasted marrow bones — a dish that, like many of Marrow’s offerings, was as simple as it is decadent.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Tues.-Fri. 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

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