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This second venture from Chris Pastena, Oakland’s aspiring restaurant impresario, is — outwardly, anyway — the exact opposite of hip, laidback Chop Bar. At Lungomare, the servers wear uniforms, the music tends toward easy listening, and the ambiance is generic-waterfront-seafood-restaurant. But the important thing is that chef Craig DiFonzo’s regional Italian cuisine, inspired by a collection of coastal villages in northwestern Italy known as Cinque Terre, is well worth seeking out. Of particular note, the restaurant is one of the few places in town that offers one or more whole-fish options on a nightly basis — the roasted branzino, when available, is absolutely stunning. Other highlights include the chef’s modern reinterpretation of ribollita (a kind of Tuscan bean stew), the decadently creamy whole-grain polenta, and the selection of excellent housemade sodas.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon.-Thu. 7 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri. 7 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sat. 9 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun. 9 a.m.-10 p.m.

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Price: $$$

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