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Tucked inside La Peña Cultural Center, Los Cilantros is a labor of love for chef-owner Dilsa Lugo, a native of Cuernavaca, the capital of the Mexican state of Morelos. Lugo uses Niman Ranch meats and Mary’s free-range chicken and gets most of her produce from local farms, but doesn’t toot her horn about that fact on the menu, and the prices aren’t exorbitant. Breakfast, served until 2 p.m. daily, ranks highly on the list of the restaurant’s virtues, especially the masa-based regional specialties, such as the quesadillas estilo Tres Marias: fried, cheese-filled tortilla pockets served with queso fresco, sour cream, and roasted-tomato salsa. Highlights among the restaurant’s selection of taqueria standards include excellent barbacoa — beef chuck roast wrapped in banana leaves and slow-roasted until the well-spiced meat has a lush fattiness and a nicely charred crust — and spicy, smoky chicken tinga.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Tue.-Sun. 10 a.m.-2:00 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5:30-9:30 p.m.

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Price: $-$$

Payment Type: Cash, Visa, Mastercard

Local, organic, sustainably-sourced ingredients used when possible.

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