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The unwitting or the willfully unadventurous limit themselves to the regular menu, with its indifferent Cantonese clichés. Ask for the one-page Shanghainese menu (it has English translations, thankfully). Chef-owner Willy Ying usually hits with the unctuous, long-cooked dishes of his native Shanghai — red-braised pork thigh, which you need to pre-order, is fantastic. But Ying has a lighter touch, too, especially with shrimp.

Hours: 11:00 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sun.-Thu.; 11:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, cash

Attire: casual to dressy

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