Take a load off this Labor Day, and let Oakland’s Homestead (4029 Piedmont Ave.) do the cooking. The restaurant is Elizabeth and Fred Sassen’s elegant ode to the early American homesteaders’ from-scratch sensibility. And although it’s one of the nicer restaurants on Piedmont Avenue, the barbecue will be a casual, cash- and paper plates-only affair; no reservations — just first-come, first-served. “It’s basically my personal Labor Day barbecue that I would be doing at my house if I didn’t have a professional kitchen and restaurant to open up to the public,” Elizabeth Sassen said. A $30 ticket ($15 for kids under ten) pays for a buffet-style spread of slow-cooked baby back ribs, corn on the cob with chili-lime butter, a fingerling potato salad, house-baked pullman bread, house-made peach popsicles, and more. It isn’t an all-you-can-eat buffet, but the Sassens promise that each plate will be a generous portion of food. Go early before they sell out.