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Owner and chief cook Rico Tiongco rings subtle changes on the traditional diner canon in a way that feels perfectly suited to his funky Oaksterdam locale — a satisfying update of the short-order genre that never feels forced or fancy. Classics such as corned beef hash (a chewy, deconstructed griddle fry) coexist with vegan Vietnamese banh mi, and it all feels perfectly natural. Credit the kitchen’s meticulousness, which reaches perfect expression in the deep-fryer: Both bacon and home fries attain an amazing delicacy after a turn in hot oil, and neither ends up greasy. Amazing.

Hours: Mon.-Tue. 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Wed.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Sat. 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Sun. 4 p.m.-1 a.m.

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Price: $

Payment Type: cash

ParkingChoice: Meters

ReservationsChoice: Not Accepted, Not Necessary

Attire: casual

Entertainment: none

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