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At Commis, James Syhabout presides over deceptively complex dishes juxtaposing subtle shades of flavor. At Hawker Fare, he cooks the kind of food he likes to unwind with after clocking twelve hours in the fine-dining mill. Syhabout — who grew up in Oakland, and whose family has roots in Northeast Thailand — has compiled a short list of Asian rice bowls with the kind of uncompromising flavors he recalls from his mom’s kitchen, recreated with the tools of a Michelin-starred kitchen (hint: the immersion circulator never stops whirring), like long-cooked pork belly and a Northern Thai version of Hainanese chicken rice.

— John Birdsall

Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Dinner Thu.-Sat. 5-9:30 p.m.

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