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After suffering a fire, this titan of regional Chinese cookery has reopened in a new, modern-looking space located around the corner from its previous location. Now, the creaky charm of the original dining room has been supplanted by sleek minimalism, and an actual host stand has replaced the old front-of-house system (a pad of paper). Most importantly, the food is better than ever. The restaurant is best known for its Peking duck — a showstopper of a dish — but the menu offers an abundance of other, more understated pleasures: delicate fish dumplings; tiny, tempura-battered fried oysters; steamed surf clams served on the half-shell topped with oil and scallions; and sautéed Dungeness crab that you spoon into puffy steamed buns, like a Chinese reinterpretation of a crab roll. And although much of its award-winning wine collection was lost in the fire, Great China remains a worthy destination for oenophiles — a rarity among Chinese restaurants.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Wed.-Mon. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m.

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

Reservations accepted for parties of six or more only.

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