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At Genny’s, the meats — especially the beef tri-tip — are infused with a satisfying smokiness, and the barbecue sauce is tasty (and smoky, too), if a bit on the sweet side. But it’s the side dishes that will keep you coming back: perfectly cooked collard greens with nice bit of heat; gingery candied yams; and soupy, savory Louisiana-style red beans and rice studded with chunks of tender pork shoulder.

Virginia Roberson wanted her first barbecue restaurant to be the kind of mom-and-pop place where everything’s homemade: “nothing out of a can, box, or bag,” as she put it. That kind of talk isn’t uncommon, but Roberson backs it up with better-than-solid ’cue and side dishes that have a homey, tended-to quality. At Genny’s, the meats — especially the beef tri-tip — are infused with a satisfying smokiness, and the barbecue sauce is tasty (and smoky, too), if a bit on the sweet side. But it’s the side dishes that will keep you coming back: perfectly cooked collard greens with nice bit of heat; gingery candied yams; and soupy, savory Louisiana-style red beans and rice studded with chunks of tender pork shoulder. Save room for dessert: The sweet potato pie is another winner.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Wed.-Sun. noon-8 p.m.

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Price: $$

Payment Type: Cash only

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