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Chef Sunhui Chang has transformed a seven-hundred-square-foot space in a starkly industrial West Oakland neighborhood into a bustling gem of a lunch spot. The menu riffs on Korean and Japanese bar fare: Chang’s version of Korean fried chicken is reminiscent of buffalo wings, except crispier and without the goopy sauce. His pork belly- and mayo-laden Busan torta is as decadent as any porchetta sandwich. Best of all are the restaurant’s creative banchans (little side dishes), which come with any combo set. On any given day, the spread might include several varieties of Chang’s excellent house-made kimchi, a panoply of tiny pickled things (shiitake mushrooms, green mango slices, carrot tops), and more. Equally impressive is how affordable the food is — everything under ten bucks, tax inclusive.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Lunch: Tues.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Happy Hour: Tues.-Sat. 3:30 p.m.-5:30 p.m. Dinner: Tues.-Thurs. 6:00 p.m.-9:00 p.m.; Fri. & Sat 6:00 p.m.-10:00 p.m.

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Price: $-$$

Payment Type: Cash or checks only

Local, organic produce and sustainably raised meats used when possible. “Soft” reservations taken for large parties.

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