This ritzy Spanish restaurant from former Oliveto chef Paul Canales is nothing if not ambitious: a 4,000-square-foot multi-use space that includes a high-end coffee shop, a wine and olive-oil retailer, an art gallery, and a performance venue for experimental jazz. It’s a stylish place, with food that befits the grand, vibrant setting. Canales takes traditional Spanish and Basque small plates as a jumping-off point but embellishes them with global, Californian, and modern touches: A salad of frisée and fried baby squid is crowned with a sous vide egg; a pork-trotter-and-cheek fritter is served over a French-tasting mustard sauce. The hamburguesa tartara (beef tartare reimagined as a burger and fries) is outstanding, and the arroz negro (topped — California-style — with local, seasonal seafood) is worth the splurge.
Hours: Mon., Wed.-Thu., Sun. 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri-Sat. 5:30-11 p.m.
Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards
The adjacent Duende Bodega (a cafe and wine/olive oil shop) opens at 7 a.m. on weekdays and at 9 a.m. on the weekend.