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This “California-Moroccan” restaurant was long the home of Tanjia, which served decent, if unexciting, Moroccan food. Now the restaurant has reinvented itself, enlisting a French chef (Eric Lanvert) who has modernized the menu, with a focus on local ingredients. Some dishes are brighter-tasting updates on Moroccan standards like duck tagine and pastilla (a meat pie stuffed, in this case, with quail). Others only have a slight North African accent — a scattering of Berber spice mix around the edges of a dainty beet salad, for instance. Ultimately, though, the best dishes were the ones that tasted the most French. (Funny how that happens when you have a French chef.) Don’t miss the seared sea scallops, served over a rich Jerusalem-artichoke velouté, or, even better, the escargot: snails braised in an aromatic “Marrakech-style” broth but finished the French way — stuffed with a ton of butter, then baked until tender.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Tue.-Sun. 5-10:30 p.m.

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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