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For the longest time, it’s been de rigueur to say a place has good food for a bar — a backhanded compliment if I’ve ever heard one. District, a wine bar in Old Oakland, has good food, period — especially chef Bob Cina’s playful interpretations of French bistro fare. The steak tartare, for instance, is one of the best in the city — coarsely hand-cut, topped with a fried quail egg, and seasoned with mellow, fruity violet mustard. District’s house-made charcuterie also is not to be missed, especially the slightly boozy truffled chicken-liver mousse. And customers just grabbing a quick snack at the bar could do worse than an order of fries, a textbook-perfect version served with a surprisingly light truffled Parmesan aioli for dipping.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Sun.-Wed. 4-10 p.m.; Thu.-Sat. 4 p.m.-midnight

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: cash, VISA, Mastercard

Reservations only accepted for large parties.

Oysters and bar snacks 4-5 p.m. Late night menu 10 p.m.-midnight Thu.-Sat.

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