As long as you’re okay with bare-bones amenities, loud music, and the presence of a rough-looking character or two, Couyon Cajun & Po’boys, the restaurant inside the punk-rock dive bar Eli’s Mile High Club, is worth checking out. Yes, it’s a dive bar — a strictly casual, cash-only operation. But chefs David Hledik and Louise Martin make nearly everything — the sauces, the cured meats, and the soup stocks — from scratch. The star attractions are po’boys like the Crispy Kitty, an excellent version of a traditional New Orleans-style fried catfish sandwich. But it’s the appetizers and sides that will keep us coming back: pulled-pork-topped mac ’n’ cheese, chowder-like corn maque choux, and Cajun-style fried pork belly “cracklins.” All bar food ought to be like this: nothing frou-frou, nothing served in a mason jar, almost everything priced at less than $10 — but everything tasty and made with care.
Hours: Sun.-Thurs. noon-10:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. noon-12:30 a.m.
During the winter, there’s only a limited food menu available from noon to 4 p.m.