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At this Temescal taqueria, the music sounds as if it’s piped in straight from some street fair, and the room seems impossibly festive and bright even on the grayest, gloomiest day. But for fans of Cholita Linda and its legendary Baja fish tacos — which were previously sold only at festivals and farmers’ markets — chef Vanessa Chavez’s simple, soulful food is the real cause for celebration. The fish tacos live up to the hype, striking the perfect balance between the crunch of the batter-fried tilapia, the heat of the tomato-based salsa roja, and the cooling effect of the white Baja sauce. Other highlights include the (vegetarian and gluten-free) tofu tacos and the wonderfully soupy slow-cooked black beans. Meanwhile, dishes like the picadillo (seasoned ground beef over rice) and the asado roast-beef sandwich reflect Chavez’s Cuban and Peruvian heritage.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon.-Sat.: 11AM-10PM

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Price: $-$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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