Thirty years after La Farine's founding, its plain croissants are still a structural marvel, sturdy enough to retain their crisp, golden shell all day, but made of such gossamer stuff that it takes no more than a gentle tug to shatter the crust, releasing layers upon layers of delicate pastry beneath. And although owner Jeff Dodge recently opened a new store on Solano, the quality hasn't slipped. La Farine's scones and brioche have won the affections of many, but we love its whole croissant family best -- the thin bars of dark chocolate running through the chocolatine, the "Swiss Twinkie" with its filling of ground mixed nuts, the almondy frangipane, and the apple croissant that's as much fruit cup as pastry. But the one that inspires such a strong Pavlovian response in us that we've been known to walk around the block rather than pass La Farine's open doors is the Morning Bun. Calling it a cross between a cinnamon roll and a croissant just can't approximate its poetry.