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The classic neighborhood trattoria blown up big, with the dated look of 1980s postmod: neon, faux marble, and Doric columns made of filmy Plexiglas. The menu, however, isn’t showing its age a bit. Paul Camardo and Mark Valentine’s circa-1988 Cal-Ital cooking is all about cheese-plush pizzas with vivid toppings, pastas scattered with a kaleidoscope of ingredients, and simple entrée plates bearing hefty slabs of protein. No longer stylish, Bucci’s is free to concentrate on just being good.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner: 5:30-9:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Closed Sun.

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, cash, check

Attire: casual to dressy

Extra Info: the restaurant says approximately 75% of the produce, meats, poultry, and seafood it serves are organic, sustainably raised, or wild-harvested

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