Every time we think the wood-fired oven craze is starting to die down, we walk into a new restaurant and see another stone chimney with a pizza-peel-wielding cook in front. That's just fine. These thin-crust mini pies are becoming our contribution to American culture. Soon people will be opening up restaurants specializing in California-style pizza -- oh wait, that's already happened. Within the realm of the artisanal wood-fired-oven-cooked pizza, we have to tip our hats to Via Centro for making a memorable one. It's not the toppings, though they're grand -- the current pizza on offer sports pancetta, caramelized onions, fresh tomato, and basil chiffonade. It's the crust -- deceptively light and brushed with just enough oil so that the dough turns blistery, crisp, and golden during its short time near the flames.