Soi 4 is sublime. The food is delicately seasoned, the wine list is good but not overwhelming, and the restaurant decor is clean and simple, not pretentious. It's a great place to take a date. After dinner, you can stroll up College Avenue in Oakland's tony Rockridge district and duck into Diesel or Pendragon bookstores. Among the best appetizers on the menu are the green papaya salad (somtum) with cherry tomatoes in garlic-tinged lime juice. It dances on your tongue, as do the Shiang Hai noodles with roasted chili paste and lime and lemongrass (yum Shiang Hai). If you love Thai curries, try the yellow curry with half-chicken and potatoes and cucumber salad (kang kari gai); the charbroiled grilled vegetables in green curry (pak rad kang); or the charbroiled salmon and melon in red curry (pla rad kang). Then top off your meal with a glass of Flora Springs Merlot or a Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay.