Everybody knows seafood comes in two varieties -- expensive, fresh, and tasty, or cheap, frozen, and insipid -- right? Whatever, gwailo. At this packed, loud, Hong Kong Chinese joint filled with large families and decorated with wall paintings of immense fish, you can go for broke on $40-per-pound rock cod from the live tanks, or drop just a couple of bucks on some seafood porridge. If you're dining with a group and you'd like to trundle out with full bellies but also full bank accounts, try a little informed moderation -- share a superfresh seafood dish, like the excellent salt-and-pepper whole Dungeness crab, and supplement it with less-pricey dishes, seafood or otherwise. There are fish throats, live frogs, and goose intestines for the adventurous, and won ton soup, Peking spareribs, and chow fun for the meek -- many wonderful choices at $5 to $50 per person.