In Oakland's excellent, workaday Chinatown, we have a favorite purveyor of roast duck, and another for jook, and yet another for wonton noodle soup. But whenever we need to grab a quick dinner and don't feel like stopping in half a dozen different storefronts, we always wind up calling in an order at New Gold Medal, where the vast menu doesn't have many weak links. Want barbecued meats? The crisp-skinned roast pig and soy-sauce chicken are some of the best in town. In the mood for noodles or jook? You can't go wrong with the various chow fun and chow mein options, and the rice porridges are delicate and flavorful. For a family-style meal, try the shrimp and scrambled eggs (a comfort dish through and through); the lobster noodles (whenever the lobsters in the tank look lively); and whatever Chinese greens are in season, simply stir-fried with garlic. Truly, though, it's hard to go wrong.