Don't stick your nose up just 'cause this is in the 'burbs. Pull over and see how the natives dine. This is pizza the way it's supposed to be: simple and delicious, with fresh ingredients. It's the kind you didn't grow up with but wished you had. The dough resembles the kind served in Italy: thin, bumpy, and crisp. If you're accustomed to stuffing yourself with wedges of thick-doughed pizza, forget it. Here, you can eat almost a whole pie and not have gorged. The "heirloom potato" pizza with fingerling potatoes and caramelized onions is as sweet and satisfying as comfort food. For a more robust pizza, try the popular spicy fennel sausage with meaty portobellos and roasted onions. Other pizzas include asparagus, tarragon, lemon, and parmesan or radicchio, goat cheese, pancetta, and pesto. You also can create your own. For appetizers try the scrumptious asparagus with olive oil, vinegar, and speck (cooked prosciutto). Save room for lemon semifreddo and an unconventional cornmeal shortcake with strawberries.