Devoted to both his childhood and his adult homes, Will Gioia wants to serve pizza that both Brooklynites and Californians will respect. He labels a perfectly excellent mushroom pizza "funghi" and serves his slices on wax-paper squares that don't collect nearly as much grease as New Yorkers are used to. But somehow, he pulls it off: The crust is engineered improbably thin, and it crackles and blisters in the oven, turning crisp -- but not too crisp to fold in half, which is the only way to eat pizza. Gioia isn't too chichi to serve a plain pepperoni slice, but he'll also do broccoli and ricotta. Anchovies, beloved by New Yorkers and Berkeleyans and no one in between, are almost always in sight. The pizzeria's convenient sidewalk window makes it impossible to pass by without looking in, and after a whiff through the window it's even more impossible to walk off without a slice or two. Plus the #$&*! things are mostly organic. Sheesh.