Ever since Alice Waters opened the Café at Chez Panisse and started serving little wood-fired pizzas with goat cheese and smoked duck instead of pepperoni and mozzarella, chefs have been putting all sorts of fresh, upscale, or otherwise crazy stuff on their pizzas. Happily, many of these experiments in pie-topping cuisine have been exciting and delicious. Boot & Shoe Service, a cool industrial-chic destination on Grand Avenue, is an excellent example. Chez Panisse vet Charlie Hallowell tosses together eight different kinds of pizza on a given night: a calamari-aioli-marjoram presentation, perhaps, or another with wild nettles, ricota salata, and mozzarella curd, or (best of all) wafer-thin potatoes, smoky pancetta, wild rosemary, and a creamy egg yolk pulling it all together. You can also get classics like marinara or margherita, and additional sausage, anchovies, and arugula are available for a minimal charge. And did we mention the wonderfully light and tender crust that makes it all happen?