Sometimes the humblest is the best. Tucked beneath the marquee of a movie theater-turned-evangelical Christian church on the edge of downtown Fremont, De Afghanan has only four kinds of kabobs -- lamb, beef, ground beef, and chicken -- but they're all huge and generously seasoned. The tiny three-table space, which has all the charm of a corner store, gets packed with locals, who stand amid the seated diners waiting for their to-go orders. Get there early so you can order bulanee,
griddled flatbreads filled with leeks or mashed potatoes and drizzled with tangy yogurt; once the rush hits, the cooks won't have time or space to make more.