We're sorely disappointed that Cactus Taqueriacutea doesn't use lard ... because everything else it does is so good. You order a burrito and all the ingredients inside have been seasoned properly, so you don't have to amp up the flavor by pouring on the salsas (which are amazing by themselves, by the way). Vegetarians have three -- count 'em, three -- burrito options, plus a host of other veggie dishes. Forget all your memories of cardboard Ortega taco shells and order the fresh-fried crispy tacos overflowing with meats and vegetables. And wash everything down with one of the aguas frescas, which actually taste just like the fruit they're made from.