If you order two or more meat entrées, the servers will plunk a basket of wooden charcoal in the middle of your table and you can grill your meats yourself -- the spicy pork is best, but the short ribs, chicken, and Korean-style bacon are all good, too. Equally savory are the mung-bean pancakes studded with beef and vegetables, the sizzling stone bowls filled with bright red stews, and the sautéed cuttlefish. But the main dishes are not the main attraction. The panchan
that come with every entrée fill that role: ten to twelve tiny plates of pickled vegetables, dried minnows, sweet chile-coated dried radish strips, and blisteringly hot fermented kimchi. Of all the Korean restaurants in the area, this one serves the brightest, tartest, hottest, crunchiest selection. Wear clothes that you can easily wash, since you'll walk out smelling like you just spent a couple of nights toasting marshmallows 'round the campfire.